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Plzeň is notably one of the most underrated cities within the Czech Republic. Being the birthplace of Pilsner beer, you know I just had to visit. This a city full of beautiful architecture, pastel facades, quiet cobblestone streets, cozy coffee shops and friendly locals.
Situated about 90 kms southwest from Prague and with more than 180,000 inhabitants, Plzeň is the fourth largest city in the Czech Republic. It is the most important city of West Bohemia and was founded in 1295 by King Wenceslaus II of Bohemia, who gave 260 Plzeň citizens the right to brew Pilsner beer. The privilege to make beer was very profitable financially and allowed the holder to sell beer in his house. Not a bad way to make some money.
Plzeň was part of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy until 1918, when it was included in newly independent Czechoslovakia. It was taken by German forces in 1939 and became a leading producer of German weapons during World War II. In 1945 the city was liberated by the US Army and returned to Czechoslovakia. Unfortunately, shortly after the end of the War the Czech country was taken by the Communist regime in February 1948 and from that point, began the time of a persecution, imprisonment and a nationalization of private property.
Although the city has lived through its trials and tribulations over many years during communist time (1948-1989) with mostly people working for heavy machinery company, Škoda Works, after the Velvet Revolution and a fall of communism in 1989, many houses were returned to their original owners, who started to reconstruct their properties back to what they once were.
Plzeň should not only be known, or remembered as the city that was communist. Each year, more and more tourists are starting to discover this hidden gem of a city. You can find various museums, lovely and inviting coffee shops, theatres and gorgeous green parks to relax in all around the city.
Most people who visit the Czech Republic, only stick to visiting Prague. Do yourself a favour and get out of the major tourist areas and take the time to visit this great city, even if for only a day trip. You’ll be captivated by all that Plzeň has to offer and of course, you’ll definitely enjoy the great beer too. 😉
How To Get To Plzeň
Being the fourth largest city in the Czech Republic, Plzeň is easily accessible by car, train or bus from most places around the country. Anyone who has been reading my blog for quite sometime now, will know my strong love affair and absolute favourite method of travelling around Europe is by train. Trains to Plzeň from Prague’s main train station run approximately every hour and tickets can be purchased directly at the station, or in advance online through the České Dráhy website.
Read more: Top Things To Do In Prague
Where To Stay
There is no shortage of hotels in Plzeň’s city centre. With so many great choices, it can be time consuming trying to find a place that checks all the boxes on your list. Are you looking for something outside the city centre, or would you rather stay close to where all the action is? Are you looking for something budget friendly, or 5 star luxury treatment? Whatever you’re searching for, you’re bound to find it in Plzeň. I stayed in a centrally located hotel, right on the main tram route, but even though it was on a main street, the room was incredibly quiet. Hotel Rango was absolutely incredible. The staff, the room, the breakfast were all top notch and I can highly recommend them.
Explore The City Centre
Whenever I visit a new destination, I tend to visit the points of interest to me first, then I will aimlessly wander the streets, stumbling on new and beautiful areas along the way. Without a doubt, one of the most pleasant places to enjoy is the Mill Race (Mlýnská strouha in Czech), also known as Plzeň’s Venice. This relaxing area, complete with a pond and surrounded by nothing but lush vegetation, is part of the city’s green belt of gardens. You can find it just outside the city centre and I stumbled upon it by accident, on my way to find some lunch.
Stay Longer Than A Day
Seeing everything a city, or town has to offer is hard to do in a day. Although Plzeň can be done as a day trip from Prague, there’s something relaxing about staying in a place longer than a day, so you can lazily roll around in bed the next morning, have no plans and the only thing to do in the morning is find a great cup of coffee and wander the empty streets as the city begins to wake up.
Republic Square
One of the largest town squares in Czech Republic, can be found in Plzeň. Naměstí Republiky, or Republic Square, is certainly the main meeting spot within the city. The buildings in the square are predominantly built in Gothic and Renaissance styles and are adorned with beautiful pastel facades and unique architecture. Plzeň City Hall, which has remained in operation since its construction, was built according to the plans of Giovanni de Statia, an Italian architect, from 1554–1559 as one of the first renaissance style city halls in Bohemia. The three modern, golden fountains, which I’ve heard locals either love, or hate, tend to surprise visitors when seeing them for the first time, as they almost look out of place in a way. For the best views of the city, head up 301 steps to the top of the bell tower within the grandiose gothic Cathedral of St. Bartholomew (Katedrála svatého Bartoloměje). The stunning Cathedral dominates Plzeň’s skyline and is a must visit when in town. It boasts the tallest church tower in the country, at a height of 102.6 metres high and also ranks as the third tallest building in the Czech Republic.
Plzeň’s Historical Underground
This was by far, my favourite part of visiting Plzeň. With 20 kms of passageways, cellars and water wells, exploring the nooks and crannies of the historic underground corridors of Plzeň was incredibly educational and one of the more unique guided tours I’ve been on. If you consider yourself claustrophobic in any way, this may not be the tour for you, as you will be underground, in tight maze-like corridors for an extended amount of time. This underground labyrinth ranks among the largest of its kind in the Czech Republic. Construction began at the end of the 13th century, reaching as many as three floors deep in some areas. Visitors of the historical underground get to walk through an almost 800 metre long section, which if you’re over 5′ 5″ tall, you’ll definitely need to watch your head. Thankfully, at the beginning of the tour, you’re given a hardhat, which coincidentally, came in handy a few times for me. We won’t talk about that though. 😉 You’ll not only learn about the everyday life of the citizens during the Middle Ages, but you’ll also be given a free beer voucher to use at a selected list of restaurants in the city. The cost of the Historical Underground tour is about 190 CZK (about $11 CAD as of today’s market value), runs 60 minutes and is totally worth the price.
Pilsner Urquell Brewery Tour
Calling all beer drinkers! This is the tour for you. Unlike most brewery tours that have zero historical, or educational aspect to them, the Pilsner Urquell Brewery Tour is unlike anything else I’ve experienced. The Pilsner Urquell Brewery opened in 1842 in Plzeň and was the first brewery to produce a golden pale lager, branded as Pilsner Urquell. This type of beer became so popular over the years, two-thirds of the beer produced in the world today is actually referred to as pils, pilsner and pilsener after, you guessed it, Pilsner Urquell. The brewery name, Pilsner Urquell, which can be roughly translated into English as “the original source at Pilsen”, was adopted as a trademark in 1898. Pilsner Urquell is the largest producer and exporter of beer in the Czech Republic. As a WW2 enthusiast, there is a ton of history to learn on this tour. The Second World War affected the development of the Pilsner breweries and their production. The brewery suffered from a shortage of raw materials, the vehicle fleet was confiscated by the German military administration and was bombed at the end of the war and suffered extensive damage. The tour last about 2 hours and you get to taste a glass of unfiltered Pilsner Urquell straight from the wooden barrels, which can only be done on the tour. It costs 380 CZK (about $22 CAD as of today’s market value) and again, is totally worth the price.
Where To Eat
From traditional Czech cuisine, to luxurious fine dining, Plzeň is full of restaurants, bars and bakeries to keep the seasoned foodie well fed. When it comes to eating abroad, I like to eat as local as possible. Bougey restaurants that cost an arm and a leg aren’t my style. Don’t get me wrong, there’s a time and a place for it, but it’s not for me, especially as a solo traveller. Here are a few places that I really loved while in Plzeň.
Caffé Hardy: Located a few streets over from Republic Square, you’ll come across a beautiful pink corner building that is home to an absolute gorgeous coffee shop. The coffee is strong, the desserts are to die for and the staff is super friendly. Make sure to order a slice of the walnut cake if it’s available. You can thank me later.
Šenk A Restaurace Lékárna: This was my first food stop in Plzeň and was I ever impressed. From the moment I walked in, the service was impeccable and the food was amazing. I opted for a nice warm hearty goulash, which was exactly what was needed after a cool and rainy October afternoon. The decor is simple with jars of pickled vegetables lining the shelves above. I highly recommend this place whether you’re solo, or with a group.
Senk Na Parkanu: If you’re looking for a small, no frills, traditional Czech style pub, than this is the place you need to Czech out…see what I did there? 😉 I was able to use my free beer voucher here (from the Historic Underground tour) and ordered a massive plate of German style cuisine such as sausages, horseradish, mustard and of course, a pretzel. It was such a good meal and very affordable. The service isn’t the friendliest, but I mean, that doesn’t bother me at all, to be honest. The food was amazing, so that definitely makes up for it. 🙂
Restaurace U Mansfelda: Considered one of the “fancier” restaurants I visited in Plzeň, I had a simple bowl of mushroom soup. Yes, you read that right. The mushroom soup was creamy and delicious and served piping hot. In the summer months, they have a beautiful patio that overlooks the gardens.
Il Mio Caffé: Looking for a caffeine boost? Head over to this charming little coffee shop right in the city centre. They espresso is strong and the vibes are chill. What more could you ask for first thing in the morning?
Pekařství Holýšov: I stumbled upon this place while walking outside the city centre and what a treat! I was able to buy my favourite Czech snack, chlebíček, which is a type of open sandwich with various toppings and garnishes. It is often served as an appetizer dish or as a snack. Not to mention, the delicious kolache, which are a sweet Czech pastry made of yeast dough. Kolache are flat, generously filled in the middle with fruit, poppy seed, or cream cheese filling and are to die for. YUM. Don’t skip out on this place when in Plzeň and the prices? Phenomenally cheap!
If you’re planning a trip to the Czech Republic, you’d be doing yourself a disservice by not exploring other places, such as Plzeň. With a city that is filled with amazing restaurants, beautiful streets and filled with history, it definitely deserves more attention from travellers. Have you ever heard of Plzeň? If you’ve been, share some of your favourite spots down below in the comments. xo
